Saturday, February 17, 2007

Old Potrero- Single Malt


Malt whisky doesn’t have to be distilled from barley. Rye will do very nicely as well. Proof of this can be found in San Francisco, just a few miles south of the Expo. At Anchor, using a small pot still and a mash of 100% rye malt, Fritz Maytag aims to recreate the Mohongahela-style rye whiskeys of past centuries. Since the establishment of the distillery as part of Anchor brewery in 1993, several versions have been bottled and released, including a 1 y.o. ‘single malt spirit’. Nowadays the focus is very much on two expressions.

The “18th Century Style” version of Old Potrero is matured for 2 years in barrels which have not undergone any charring, but only light toasting. The idea behind this version is that in the 18th century extensive maturation nor charring of barrels would have been a common phenomenon. In contrast, Old Potrero “19th Century Style” is matured for 3 years in charred barrels. Both are bottled at cask strength, which is about 62% abv.

The differences in maturation give rise to two very different whiskeys. The “18th Century Style” Old Potrero (sub-labelled ‘single malt whiskey’), from toasted wood, is pale gold in colour and has mint and spices (especially on the nose), subtle whiffs of fruits covered in icing sugar, and clear woody notes. The slightly oily mouth-feel is followed by a dry finish.

In contrast, the “19th Century Style” 3 y.o. Old Potrero ‘single malt straight rye whiskey’) is a dark red-copper. Same kind of minty nose, but the body is richer, almost luscious but also quite oily. The palate is peppery, with vague hints of vanilla and a touch of citrus-like acidity. It’s sweeter, has less woody notes and the finish is not as dry.

As you might expect, both Old Potreros are pretty flavour-intense when tasted at cask strength. For my taste, and to fully appreciate their flavour, neither of them really need addition of water. Feel free to disagree with me on this, but do make sure you get a chance to sample this pair of really unique malt whiskeys.

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